Return to Santiago

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Dear family and friends

In Ushuaia, at the southern tip of South America, we turned 180 degrees around and began the final part of our journey back to Santiago, where our trip began some months earlier. This final section (5000 km) follows the Andes Mountains (which form the border between Chile and Argentina) and our route crosses back and forth over the mountains between these two countries, passing though some of the most spectacular scenery on the continent.


Torres del Paine National Park


Perrito Moreno Glacier, one of the few glaciers in the world that is not currently retreating.


As we pulled up at a border-crossing one morning I recognised the parked Kawasaki KLR650 bike. It was Dom the Aussie who we met in Ushuaia, now on his way back up to Colombia. We've become accustomed to riding in Patagonia's notoriously windy weather, but nothing as strong as the wind that day while we rode with Dom though Argentina to the town of Calafate. On straight road sections we had to lean the bikes steeply over into the wind as though we were going around a tight corner (I wanted Carmen to take photos of the crazy lean angles but she was hanging on too tight to reach for the camera). This was a bit disconcerting because the stronger gusts also caused the leaning bikes to swerve unpredictably all over the road (fortunately there was little traffic).

When the road changed direction and we had the wind behind us (instead of from the side), it was surreal - at 90 km/h the air was still and everything was calm and quiet - we could whisper into our helmet intercoms and when I stuck my arm out into the airflow I couldn't feel any air resistance and the leather straps on my gloves hung down limply instead of being blown back. The motor also had a strange note – like being revved hard in neutral.



We found out the hard way just how windy it can get. Route 40 though Argentina.


We pulled into a service station and had to angle the bikes into the wind so that they didn't get blown over while we were on them or while they were parked on their stands. Once we were off the bikes it was difficult to stand or walk in the wind. We debated whether or not to continue, but since strong winds can persist for days, we decided to push on, and fortunately we arrived in Calafate a little shaken but OK, though it was one of the most difficult days we'd had in the entire trip. But not as difficult as what we later heard some cyclists went though.


Sub-antarctic forest



Bike problems (but not ours!). Stopping for fuel, we met Byron and Isabel from the UK. I spent much of the morning helping Byron fix his beloved old 1979 BMW road bike so that they could continue down to Ushuaia (we heard later that he proposed to Isabel in Ushuaia - the things that happen on motorcycle trips!).



Another chat with riders at another fuel stop.



Gaucho (cowboy) - still a way of life on the plains of Patagonia (Argentina).



The famously scenic 'Carretera Austral' (Southern Road) in Chile - a favorite with motorcyclists and bicyclists.














Enchanted forest walk, Carretera Austral.










Carmen hides in Chilean Giant Rhubarb (Gunnera tinctoria), a common plant on the Carretera Austral.


Boat trip though limestone caves.



Hanging glacier.


Bush mechanic. Along the Carretera Austral we crossed paths again with 'Round-The-World' Andy (who we had met in Ushuaia). He had come off his Yamaha Tenere 660 bike on the gravel roads and had used a rock, pieces of wood, tape and a bungy cord to 'fix' his broken clutch lever. He also had a bottle of red wine and an amazing fold-up guitar, which made for a pleasant evening. 


We discovered this ready-made campsite whilst stopping to have lunch next to a river, and while we were debating whether to stay the night (we had left most of our camping gear in Venezuela, so this was a perfect opportunity to camp along the Carretera Austral), I discovered the bike's rear tyre was flat, and I also discovered we had lost our air pump somewhere during our travels - so the decision to camp was decided for us. I hitched 20 km to a nearby small village to get the tyre repaired.


At the campsite - a flat tyre from the rocky Carretera Austral - the first flat for the trip so far. This curious cow is no doubt wondering why the back wheel is missing. The small emergency stand that Max (my neighbour) and I made before I left, worked a treat here (thanks Max!).


Flat tyre - again! At least the scenery is nice.


Back onto the asphalt - for a while.


Back over the mountains and into dry Argentina. Lunch break with 'Monkey Puzzle' trees (Araucaria araucana) and volcano Lanin in the background.



Back onto the famous Route 40 in Argentina.


South American Grey Fox


Prehistoric Monkey Puzzle trees - it wouldn't be too hard to imagine dinosaurs roaming this landscape.


Hmmm, the bike feels lighter - am I missing something?


Wonderfully coloured rocks.


Mt Aconcagua (6960 m) in the background - the highest mountain in the Americas.




We came across many piles of plastic bottles full of water though-out Argentina. These bottles are left by truck drivers and other motorists at roadside altars to 'Disfunta Correa' an unofficial saint. According to folk legend Correa went into the desert, taking her baby with her, to look for her lost, sick husband. When cattlemen found her, she had died of thirst although her baby was still alive feeding at her breast - which was seen as a miracle. Full water bottles are left as a good-luck offering to the thirsty spirit of Correa.


Street in San Rafael, Argentina.



Natural minerals from hot springs. Apparently Charles Darwin came to this site during his wanderings around this part of the Andes mountains.



Crossing over the mountains from Argentina back into Chile.



Waiting for the road to open after a truck rolled - another impromptu social occasion for a couple of hours.


Crossing the Andes - the GPS view.


The last few bends to finish crossing the Andes, and the last few km's of our trip.


Yay! We've made it to Valparaiso (near Santiago) and so completed our circumnavigation of the continent.


In Valparaiso - cleaning and packing the bike ready to ship back to Australia.


And so our trip comes to an end (as do our posts to this blog). We have mixed feelings as we pack up our gear and organise to ship the bike back to Australia. On one hand we're a little sad that we are not riding anymore - we've seen and experienced so much on our 33,000 km trip - met some wonderful people and made some good friends. It really has been a dream come true. On the other hand we're keen to get back home, see our family and friends (and house), and to stay in one place for a while! At least until we've saved up enough funds for the next trip....

And a huge thankyou to all the people who helped us along the way, or written to us during our travels, and especially to our daughter Betzi and my dad Frank, for all the stress and worry they went though keeping track of where we were and our safety (when we were too busy having a good time instead of keeping up with our daily updates!).

Love to you all.
Murray, Carmen, and the bike.